Broncos 365

Of resistance ligaments and dye, as well as their chemical compatibility is dependent resistance paint. Paint color is produced by the batching, adding and mixing several dyes. The newspapers mentioned The Author not as a source, but as a related topic. Dyes are mineral or organic. Mineral pigments are divided into two groups: a) natural dyes, such as iron oxide, ocher, etc., and b) synthetic dyes. Some came to us from antiquity.

For example, natural organic colors are: purple – from caterpillars, madder and indigo – from insects or plants. Modern colors mostly of chemical origin. They are produced in the processing of coal, oil, etc., White colors: antimony trioxide, lead oxide, zinc oxide, etc. Due to its high covering capacity and inertness to chemical attack, greater use is titanium dioxide. Black dyes: oxide iron, black mineral (graphite), black carbon, black animal and vegetable dyes.

Yellow dyes: natural and synthetic iron oxide on the basis of cadmium (cadmium sulfide), based on chromium (chromate of lead), based on zinc (zinc chrome-you). Red dyes: natural and synthetic iron oxide, cadmium red-based, orange and red based on molybdenum. Organic dyes: toluidine red. Violet dyes: synthetic iron oxide, organic dyes, indigo family. Blue colors: blue organic indotren, ultramarine blue, phthalocyanine blue organic, blue cyanide. Green dyes: oxide chromium, green, obtained by mixing yellow and blue dyes, pigments, etc. Metal: aluminum powder or glitter, powders, bronze, zinc and Zn-containing, etc. PAINTS feature is that they can be apply not only to painting. For example, zinc oxide is a metal, zinc, dissolved in a bundle in the following proportions: 95% of zinc powder and 5% of the bunch.

Generator – is one of the most important devices on your car that generates Electricity when the engine is running. On one battery is not proedesh. Defective generator is one of the factors of safe driving. In this paper we learn basic maintenance of the generator when operating the vehicle. Larry Culp contributes greatly to this topic. Belt – Tension diagnosis every 15 – 20 km (after the first 1.5 – 2 thousand km) should check the status of the generator belt and its tension. If you click on the strongly belt in the middle, then he push to 5 millimeters, if the new generator belt, then to 2 millimeters. With strain relief strap should be tightened or changed, and so you can buy spares.

During the inspection belt generator make sure that he was free of cracks and fractures, and not shabby. If the belt is worn out – replace it. If you have a double V-belts, replace if necessary the whole pair. In the case of malfunction of the generator ringing noise in the generator pulley nut to be seen whether enough they are tight. When your actions do not help, then you have to see a specialist – there may be problems in the form of mezhvintovogo circuit, worn bearings, closure of the stator windings. Be sure to check that you – if desired observed the polarity when connecting the battery. Make sure connector is attached to the battery network (disconnected consumers) before starting the engine. Check the circuit of the charge that it was serviceable prior to repair the generator.

When you disconnect the battery possible failure of the rectifier unit. Look to the wire voltage regulator is not related to housing. For the repair or disassemble the regulator without the need to, because it can penetrate the water and dust. Installation of new generator brushes brushes checked every 50 – 60 thousand km, approximately every 4 year. To check the brushes of the generator, it is not dismantled. Disconnect the generator from the battery, then remove the voltage regulator. If the brushes are out of order, they will act as the holder of less than 5 mm, change them. Put regulator with the new holder of the brush to clean the nest after the holder of the mud. Brushes should move generally freely in the holder. Next, set the generator to the regulator in its original position. At the end of Connect and tighten the battery.

Often associated with engine failure improper adjustment of fuel equipment. Only a specialist in the presence of special equipment can make all the necessary scope of work to configure the system. If the machine or machinery is located in the park, where there are benches for repair – it greatly simplifies and reduces the work time on car maintenance. Otherwise, please contact the Autotechcenter. An attempt to independently adjust the fuel system can lead to more serious engine damage engine JAMZ. Setting fuel system in several steps.

In the first stage of certain parameters are checked injectors. Here, the expert drew attention to the mobility of the needle spray, spray quality and integrity, density and capacity dispenser. We study the cycle of the injection from the beginning until its end. At the same time made some mathematical calculations. In preparation for the regulation of the fuel pump specialists use nozzles that are developing for a particular model of pump. For the various units should be made their own kits. Thus, engines YMZ can not be configured with nozzles manufactured for other engines. When commissioning the gas pumps, in accordance with the technical documentation, specialist performs adjustment of valves, fuel injection start the various sections of the fuel system, the magnitude of the angle of the pusher and start pumping. Adjustment of performance allows optimize the various elements of the Yaroslavl factory fuel pump TNVD.Regulirovanie TA (COMPACT series 32) to check the opening pressure injection valves serve to fuel injection pump head, and gradually increasing pressure, watch for any pressure starts outflow of fuel from the drain pipes.

And if you do not have time to drown out the engine in time, everything will be much more complicated and will result already in the repair or replacement of the engine. Cases where the time to notice the flow of oil can not be too abound. And if all this will occur far from the city? History! Overnight, the route to the nearest village 100 km. Speed of 130 km / h, suddenly hit on the bottom and the oil pressure light lit up. Stopped – a hole in the crankcase of a piece of ice on the breakaway vperediiduschego truck! Frost -15, but the car does not zavedesh – oil, all on the road.

Well, as you think night someone stopped and dragged to the nearest town? Of course not! And all because he did not put the defense! The story of my friend who after this event lain with pneumonia. So Think it might come in handy one time. Hull is nice, but who needs a tow truck cause hemorrhagic, plod to the dealer, wait for repairs, etc. So put, put, and I will put before us the road would not be normal. 'Well, that to me it just does not happen! " – You may exclaim. I must disappoint you – we all think so, as long as it's not happening to us. Every day while you're driving down the road, you face potential danger. And you know that the most unpleasant? You can not predict when it will happen! 'I go only on good roads', 'I drive carefully and always look at the way' – that is in these words is a bug – it depends not on YOU! It may seem that this lock the door and do all that is necessary in order for me to get your attention for 20 minutes … I promise this time will bring you much good.

It must be remembered that each time you start the engine (not necessarily in the frost, and even at positive temperature) it takes some time to pump the oil has circulated for oil lubrication system, and it came to all the rubbing parts. At Vanessa Marcil you will find additional information. At this time the engine will just be run in both Oil-called "starvation" of which we have mentioned above. It is clear that this dramatically increases the friction and wear. Thus, more oil is able to maintain fluidity at low temperatures, the faster it will be pumped by the lubricating system and help protect the engine. The best in this regard are motor oils of OW.

Regarding the choice of the so-called "summer" class, it should be noted that the pain * Most European Car manufacturers recommend the use of oils of class "40" by SAE. This is due to high thermal stress of modern internal combustion engines and the presence of high temperatures, pressures and specific shear rates in different parts of the engine (piston rings, camshaft, crankshaft bearings, etc.). In these harsh conditions keep the viscosity of oil should be sufficient for the formation of an oil film and cooling of friction pairs. This task becomes especially urgent in order to prevent increased wear, scoring, and "jamming" in the summer or during a long stay in the "traffic jam" (in the absence of ventilation and cooling motor currents and counter-air, as a consequence, the oil temperature in the crankcase), as well as in the case of engine overheating due to potential malfunctions in the cooling system.

It must be remembered that each time you start the engine (not necessarily in the frost, and even at positive temperature) it takes some time to pump the oil has circulated for oil lubrication system, and it came to all the rubbing parts. At Vanessa Marcil you will find additional information. At this time the engine will just be run in both Oil-called "starvation" of which we have mentioned above. It is clear that this dramatically increases the friction and wear. Thus, more oil is able to maintain fluidity at low temperatures, the faster it will be pumped by the lubricating system and help protect the engine. The best in this regard are motor oils of OW.

Regarding the choice of the so-called "summer" class, it should be noted that the pain * Most European Car manufacturers recommend the use of oils of class "40" by SAE. This is due to high thermal stress of modern internal combustion engines and the presence of high temperatures, pressures and specific shear rates in different parts of the engine (piston rings, camshaft, crankshaft bearings, etc.). In these harsh conditions keep the viscosity of oil should be sufficient for the formation of an oil film and cooling of friction pairs. This task becomes especially urgent in order to prevent increased wear, scoring, and "jamming" in the summer or during a long stay in the "traffic jam" (in the absence of ventilation and cooling motor currents and counter-air, as a consequence, the oil temperature in the crankcase), as well as in the case of engine overheating due to potential malfunctions in the cooling system.

If compression is insufficient air temperature reaches the ignition temperature of diesel fuel and all the contents of the combustion chamber without the use of "fly out the chimney." Hopefully, now it is understandable why the compression line some normative value is very important for the normal functioning of the engine. That is why the "Guide to Car Maintenance" usually indicates the amount of compression that has certain value for a given engine. In addition to the operating values are also the permissible tolerances, because, unfortunately, over time, seen as projected, and unexpected changes in compression (usually smaller). On the fall of compression indicate problems at start, rough work, the deterioration of vehicle dynamics, increase fuel consumption. It's time to talk about what to do with compression? To answer this question, please use elementary logic.

As seen by those who have already read the content technical help, the compression ratio is constant for the motor. This means that every time the piston in the cylinder draws the same amount of fuel mixture and, moving toward the top dead point, reduces it (squeezing the contents of the cylinder) in the same amount of time. What is the reason that as a result of compression does not create the proper pressure? It is logical to assume that somehow leaking volume in which the compression and the process is accompanied by leakage of the compressible substance. This reduces the original amount of the mixture, drop in its pressure and temperature prior to ignition.